The Skins pH, Acid Mantle, and Acne

March 23, 2018 6 min read 0 Comments

The Skins pH, Acid Mantle, and Acne

by Kali Kushner

 

 

Just after turning 19I developed chronic adult cystic acne.I'm now 23.Here's the list of things I've tried over the past four years:

  • Accutane
  • Antibiotics (doxycyline, tetracycline)
  • Epiduo forte
  • Retin A
  • Cutting outcoffee
  • Cutting out dairy
  • Veganism
  • Low GI diet
  • Gluten Free diet
  • Cutting out alcohol
  • Alkaline/antiinflammatory diet
  • Medical mediums protocols (includes avoiding dairy, eggs, gluten, soy, corn, and canola oil- as well as taking 5-8 natural pills a day)
  • Exfoliating twice weekly
  • Exfoliating three times weekly
  • Completely natural skincare
  • Countless skincare products (I'm a junkie, so probably at least 15-20 new products a year)
  • Exercising every other day
  • Living with plants, buying an airpurifier
  • Washing my face with only bottled water and paper towels
  • Practicing yoga and meditating daily
  • CBD oil
  • Balancing hormones using adaptogens
  • Supplementing with zinc, hemp oil, and countless other things
  • Balancing hormones through diet and supporting foods
  • Using exclusively essential oils
  • Focusing on digestion health: using probiotics, digestive enzymes, and bone broth
  • Juicing at least 3 times a week
  • Drinking 80-160 ounces of water daily

*Bolded are things that I still do on a consistent basis, I practice yoga and still workout- but I give my body a breakin-between. I aim for 3 times a week instead ofevery single day, I've found everything works best for me inmoderation. *

Does this sound familiar to you? Research acne for four years straight looking for a cure andyou'll drive yourself crazy. If you're anything like me, you'll start to believe you have every hormonal imbalance, digestion issue, and vitamindeficiency known to man andtry anything that claims to free you of the cystic acne clutches. But what if your problem was due to somethingelse.. Somethingyouhaven'tthought about yet.

 

is your acne caused by an upset acid mantle?


Wait, what? "but trust me,I've thought about literally everything- just looking at your list mine is the exact same!" Is probably what you're thinking right now. But trust me, the answer could beso,soo much simpler thanyou can even imagine. What if in doing all of these things, we lost sense of the wholeless is moreapproach when it comes to skincare; and inovercompensating actually stripped the skin of its naturalacid mantle, causing our problematic skin.After all, it only takes one skincare product to disrupt the delicate balance and ruin a good skincare routine.It could be a cleanser, a toner, or even a moisturizerthat's destroying your acid mantle- without you even realizing it.

The acid mantle isseverely underrated when it comes to healthy, blemish free skin. Before a week ago, Ihadn't really considered it as a major factor contributing to my acne. Sure, I thought maybe it could make things a little worse, but never did I think it was themain factor. Well guess what folks- it can be. Ifyou're constantly overexfoliating and using alkaline cleansers you may be stripping the skin of its acid mantle leaving it vulnerable toinflammation and acne causing bacteria.

 

what is the acid mantle and why is it important?


The acid mantle, or barrier,is a very fine thin layer on your skin made up of sweat, fatty acids, and sebum secreted from your sebaceous glands. The acid mantle plays an important part when it comes to the overall health of your skin. It acts as an invisible shield and protects your skin from bacteria, viruses, and other harmfulcontaminants that might damage theskins barrier. It keeps the good stuff in, and the bad stuff out. Externally, pH plays an important role in maintaining a healthy acid mantle.

The skinexists at an acidic pH of about 5.5, ranging anywherefrom 4.5 - 6.5 depending on the person. That’s right, the skin is naturally acidic. Seems kind of strange doesn't it? Iwouldn't have guessed that our skin is acidic(like lemons or limes)- but it is!The skin needsacidity to inhibit bacteria growth, which may be why skin that is too alkaline is moresusceptible to acne.

The more alkaline your skin becomes (pH of 7+) the moresusceptible you become to acne causing bacteria. This is why it is so important that you are using a pHbalanced, or aslightlyacidic cleanser (ranging around 5.5). You can easily test the pH level of your cleanser by using an at homepH test kit. If your cleanser is ata 6.5 or higher, throw it out!Acne bacteria LOVE alkaline environments, they thrive in it! It’s a cycle. The skin becomes alkaline, bacteriathrives, and the skincan't keep upwith the growth, leading to more and more breakouts.

 

how the acid mantle becomes disrupted


There are several ways an acid mantle can be thrown off balance:

  • Overuse of skincare products (washing your face too much)
  • Over exfoliation, chemical and physical
  • Using bar soap (alkaline 7+)
  • Harsh toners, isopropyl alcohol, makeup remover/wipes with alcohol
  • Using tap water (can more alkaline than skin from 6.5 - 7)
  • Not using pH balanced products (too alkaline)

 

 

When you cleanse and apply products the acid mantle isdamaged,withthe amount ofdamage done depending on theacidity or alkalinity of your products. It immediately beginstorestore itself, taking anywhere from 5 minutes to 24 hours. The issue is when the acid mantle is beingrepeatedly damaged andstops restoring itselfor becomes slower during the restoration process. This can happen with overuse of AHA's/BHA's or alkaline cleansers. If your skin feels tight and dry right after cleansing,you have just stripped your skins acid mantle. By constantly using alkaline products you begin raising your skins pH level, making it more prone to acne and inflammation.

 

what about oil cleansing?


pH, which standsfor Potential ofHydrogen,measures how acidic or alkalinea substance is rangingfrom 0 to 14,with 7 beingneutral.pHtechnically measureshydrogen ionconcentration in anaqueous solution (water). Because oils don't contain water,they don't have apH.Therefore, oils won't disrupt the pH of your skin. Oil absorbs oil, so when you use a cleansing oil itdislodges the dirt that clogs your pores without removing the sebum from your sebaceous glands or stripping the acidmantle.Though it may seem counter intuitive to use oils for acne, you can safely use oils to cleanse- just make sure you rinse them off completely when done!

 

how to tell if your acid mantle is out of whack


There are severaltelltale (and some not so obvious) signs of a damaged skin barrier:

  • Increased skin sensitivity, skin is highly reactive
  • Redness
  • Hyper inflammatory response
  • Dryness
  • Flakiness, Itching, Tightness
  • Skin stinging upon product application
  • Tried multiple different products with no difference in skin
  • Tried multiple different diet or lifestyle changes with no difference in skin

 

 

If you're dealing withpersistent acne thatwon't quit, it may be that you have a compromised a skin barrier. Are you using products for acne, only to be left with red, irritated, and flaky skin? It could be that youactually have sensitive, dry skin and are treating itinappropriately (making matters worse). Not to fear! The skins acid mantle can be repaired. Give your mug a break! Try

avoiding absolutely all irritation; no cleansers, water, toner, masks, or moisturizers for at least two weeks as your acid mantle restores itself. If your skin improves- then you know you're on the right track! And don’t worry, you can addback in your favorite skincare products eventually (once you feel your barrier is completely repaired). Our skinknowshow to take care of itself, sometimes we just need to get out of the way and let it do its thang.

 

balanced pH cleanser recommendations


Check out the links below for a few pH balanced cleansers! Again, if you're oil cleansing you don't have to worry about the pH but ifyou prefer to get a little sudsy, the links below are for you.(It's probably best to avoid all bar soaps unless they don’t contain alkali or have a lowpH. Bar soaps typically have an extremely alkaline pH of about 9 or 10).

 

http://www.thegloss.com/beauty/ph-balanced-cleansers-skin-care-products-shopping-guide/

https://www.glamour.com/story/why-ph-balancing-cleansers-better-skin

Veise Beauty Honey & ACV Cleanser (My favorite pH balanced cleanser)

Franklin and Whitman (My favorite Oil Cleanser)

Glossiers Milk Jelly Cleanser (mirrors the pH of our skin)

FAB face Cleanser

 



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