Dermaroller 101: Everything you need to know!

By Daisy Jing 

• What is a Dermaroller?
• Length of Needles
• Benefits of Derma Rolling
• The Top 7 Uses for a Derma Roller
• Common Questions Answered

So what exactly is a Derma Roller?  I'll answer those questions and explain how to use a dermaroller and the skin benefits of a derma roller today. 

What is a Dermaroller? 

You may be wondering, “How in the world is inserting hundreds of little needles into your face relaxing? And why would anyone want to do that?”

A Dermaroller,  is a handheld device with a roller that has microneedles in it and the needle size ranges from .25 millimeters to 2 millimeters. However the term dermaroller is a name brand of microneedling tools that have a rolling mechanism. 

Two independent studies that were done in the 90s went through the use of needles to treat scar tissue however it was not until 2005 that the first study reported the use of a dermaroller.  

They work by creating micro injuries in the skin which stimulate the skin's natural healing process to create collagen and elastin fibers and causes minimal damage compared to more invasive treatments such as certain lasers.  

Length Of Needles

The needles in a dermaroller range in different sizes for different purposes.

Here’s how different needle lengths work:

• 0.25mm: Exfoliates skin and enhances product absorption.
• 0.5mm: Improves uneven skin tone, acne scars, fine lines, and enlarged pores by promoting collagen production.
• 1.5mm+ Targets deep scars, but professional use is recommended due to increased risk of infection or trauma.

If you are going to dermaroll or microneedle yourself, the 0.5mm length is just deep enough to promote collagen and elastin production in the skin.

The Banisher 3.0 has 0.5 millimeter needles which is ideal for safe and effective microneedling at home.   Longer lengths come with greater risks.  

Benefits of derma rolling

Dermarolling or microneedling has a lot of benefits to your skin:

• Reduce wrinkles and stretch marks
• Reduce acne scars and skin discoloration
• Improves skin firmness
• Enhances product absorption

Why is collagen important? 

Think of collagen fibers as the foundation to help skin remain firm. Just think of our skin as being a mattress. So in the mattress, you have a little springs inside of it. The more springs you have, the more firm and elastic your skin is. 

If you’re missing some springs, that area of the mattress may have a dip and won’t bounce back if pressed down.  If you are prone to acne scars which occur due to damaged collagen from the acne breakout,  then derma rolling or microneedling is a great solution to rebuild that foundation and adding the "springs" back to skin. 

 

THE TOP 7 USES FOR A DERMA ROLLER

 

1. Acne Scars

Once scarring occurs, microneedling can help to undo or fade it. Needling of the skin will cause the skin to repair and replace itself and can eventually wear down and eliminate scars.

That’s why we advise to use the Banisher once every other week and to continue using it as consistency is also important. Further to this, microneedling is also proven to help banish most types of scars even on the body.

Scar tissues are made up of abnormal formation of collagen, so microneedling with a dermaroller can help break up old scar tissues and stimulate collagen and elastin production. 

The only exception is that microneedling shouldn’t be used on keloid scars because keloid scars are caused by an abnormal overproduction of collagen in response to inflammation or injury. 

2. HYPERPIGMENTATION

Hyperpigmentation is a condition in which parts of the skin become darker in color than the surrounding skin.

People with darken skin tend to be prone to hyperpigmentation.  Hyperpigmentation often occurs after  acne, wounds, or sun damage. 

Microneedling works on hyperpigmentation by shredding the top layer of the skin and the skin produces normal melanocytes after.

This procedure is a good substitute for other hyperpigmentation treatments such as microdermabrasion, laser and chemical peels since it is safe for people with a darker skin tone. 

3. FINE LINES AND WRINKLES

When we’re younger, our skin is smoother and heals quickly thanks to all of the collagen in our dermis,  however our body stops producing as much collagen in our mid to late 20s.  At the late 30's our collagen production declines significantly leading to fine lines and wrinkles.

The primary appeal of microneedling is its ability to stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin which is the key to new youthful looking skin.  A few sessions of microneedling will noticeably reduce fine lines and wrinkles which is great.

 Collagen produced through microneedling will help thicken and tighten the skin.  So if you want thicker and plumper skin, derma rolling is a great option - but at the end we'll share an even better option.  

4. Premature Aging

So, similar to the effects of treating fine lines and wrinkles, microneedling can also help prevent premature aging by triggering collagen and elastin growth.  You may have heard the term "collagen banking".   Which refers to keeping your body's collagen reserves up as much as possible before it starts to decline with age and skin damage.  

 By thickening, repairing, strengthening and updating the elasticity of the skin, microneedling can have an preventative aging effect by giving skin a stronger, more youthful appearance which is why it is one of the most frequently turned to skin treatments for anti-aging.

Microneedling can help reduce the size of enlarged pores as well if the reason is due to collagen loss.  

5. HAIR GROWTH

I know a lot of guys that microneedle with Banish  because it helps with their hair growth and this is true!

It definitely helps with hair loss and hair growth. Microneedling can be performed on the scalp in order to help combat and reverse the effects of hair loss. You can either use the Banisher as a stand alone or you can also use it in conjunction with hair medication like minoxidil in order to facilitate absorption into the scalp. 

Microneedling helps promote hair growth by increasing blood flow to the hair follicles,  and increases the absorption and delivery of hair growth products. 

Instead of dermarolling though, we recommend derma stamping instead since derma rolling has the potential to rip or tear the hair which is the opposite of what we want.  

6. STRETCH MARKS

 Stretch marks occur from rapid skin stretching and usually appears during puberty or pregnancy for men and women.  It is tougher to treat and may need several treatments to see visible results but a lot of people have reported seeing excellent results.

Microneedling works on stretch marks by breaking down stretch mark tissues and triggers collagen growth that can eventually reduce or fade stretch marks over time.

7. BETTER PRODUCT ABSORPTION

The last one was already mentioned above but let me just give a separate pointer for it - the Banisher helps with better product absorption. Did you know that only 4 to 8% of those expensive skincare products we buy actually penetrate our skin? 

One of the additional appeals of microneedling is that it improves product absorption tremendously. Studies confirm that the treatment can help topical medications penetrate the skin more efficiently, allowing you to reap the full benefits of any product.  This makes total sense considering the fact that microneedling creates thousands of micro channels on your skin that are ready to absorb products and increase the efficacy. 

Just make sure not to put anything too irritating or full of fragrance on your skin after since you don't want that being absorbed more! 

DERMA ROLLING COMMON QUESTIONS ANSWERED

When Should I Not Use A Dermaroller?

Don't dermaroll if you have a lot of active acne, or rashes.  You would be spreading the bacteria deeper and to more areas of the skin which increases risk of infection.

It's also not recommended for use if you are pregnant.

If you are taking medications like Isotretinoin, you shouldn't use a dermaroller eitherl. 

 

MICRONEEDLING versus DERMAROLLING, Which is Better?

• Microneedling: Uses vertical stamping motion for controlled micro-wounds.

• Derma Rolling: Rolls needles into the skin, potentially causing wider injuries.

We recommend a microneedle stamp like the Banish Kit 3.0 for more precise and safer treatment especially when microneedling at home.  

Why? With a microneedle stamp the needles go straight down into and out of the skin vertically, creating the smallest micro injuries possible, while rollers roll into and out of the skin at an angle so the channel created is a wider 'cone' shape. 

Dermarollers can be fine to use as long as you are gentle with it, however if you are concerned about possible skin or hair tearing, risk of scarring, or have more sensitive skin then a microneedle stamp like the Banish Kit 3.0 is a better choice.  

According to Dermarologist Dr Dylan Greeney based in Indiana, stampers are preferred because “It’s not dragging across your skin, causing haphazard cuts on your skin."

Proper Derma roller technique: 

With dermarollers, don't roll back and forth aggressively as you should only roll in one direction. 

So the technique is to roll once in one direction, lift up, then roll in one direction again while pulling the skin the opposite direction you are rolling. 

 You also need to be careful of where you purchase them as there can be low quality rollers with bent needles or made with bad metal quality.  

Repeat use once every 2 weeks. 

Recommended microneedling Tool: Banisher 3.0 microneedle tool 

ARE THERE SIDE EFFECTS TO DERMA ROLLER?

Derma rolling has a few common side effects that will go away on its own in a few hours and side effects depend on how long the needles are.  

The most common side effect includes redness.  

DO I HAVE TO DISINFECT IT BEFORE USING IT FOR THE FIRST TIME ?

Yes, always sanitize a dermaroller with Isopropyl alcohol before and after use.

WHEN DO I SEE RESULTS?

It takes about 1 to 3 months on average to start to see results using a derma rolling or microneedling.  

Just stay consistent! 

To get the most out of your microneedling treatment, I recommend reading this article on common microneedling mistakes that could slow your results.  

Have you had success with a derma roller?  Let us know in the comments!