Dermaroller 101: Everything you need to know!

By Daisy Jing 

So what exactly is a Derma Roller?  I'll answer those questions and explain how to use a dermaroller and the skin benefits of a derma roller today. 

What is a Dermaroller? 

You may be wondering, “How in the world is inserting hundreds of little needles into your face relaxing? And why would anyone want to do that?”

Dermaroller,  in general, is a handheld device with a roller that has microneedles in it and the needle size ranges from .25 millimeters to 2 millimeters. However the term dermaroller is a name brand of microneedling tools that have a rolling mechanism. 

Two independent studies that were done in the 90s went through the use of needles to treat scar tissue however it was not until 2005 that the first study reported the use of a dermaroller.  

They work by creating micro injuries in the skin which stimulate the skin's natural healing process to create collagen and elastin fibers and causes minimal damage compared to more invasive treatments such as certain lasers.  

Length Of Needles

The needles in a dermaroller range in different sizes for different purposes.

For example

Needle lengths from 0.5mm can help with uneven skin tone and texture, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and enlarged pores due to loss of collagen. 

0.25mm needle length can exfoliate the skin and provide product penetration.

Longer needles at 1.5mm and above can help with deep scarring. 

If you are going to dermaroll or microneedle yourself, the 0.5mm length is just deep enough to promote collagen and elastin production in the skin.

This is our tool, the Banisher 2.0, is at 0.5 millimeter.  Longer lengths come with greater risks, so we recommend getting professional microneedling done if you have very deep ice pick scars because the longer lengths could pose greater risk of infection or skin trauma if used incorrectly.   

Benefits of derma rolling

Dermarolling or microneedling has a lot of benefits to your skin:

• Reduce wrinkles and stretch marks
• Reduce acne scars and skin discoloration
• Improves skin firmness
• Enhances product absorption

Why does stimulating collagen help with these skin issues? 

Think of collagen fibers as the foundation to help skin remain firm. Just think of our skin as being a mattress. So in the mattress, you have a little springs inside of it. The more springs you have, the more firm and elastic your skin is.

If you’re missing some springs in there, this means that that area of the mattress may have a dip and won’t bounce back if pressed down.  If you are prone to acne scars which occur due to damaged collagen from the acne breakout,  then derma rolling or microneedling is a great solution for it.  e.

 

THE TOP 7 USES FOR A DERMA ROLLER

 

1. Dermarolling for ACNE SCARS

Once scarring occurs, microneedling can help to undo or fade it. The prickling of the skin will cause the skin to repair and replace itself and can eventually wear down and eliminate scars. That’s why we advise to use the Banisher once every other week and to continue using it as consistency is also important. Further to this, microneedling is also proven to help falter or even banish most types of scars. So if you have a scar, for example, like on your arm, or forehead, it can really help with those scars. Any kind of scar including acne scars is an inflammatory response in the skin. Since scarring tissues are made up of abnormal formation of collagen, the microneedling tool can help break up old scar tissues and stimulate collagen and elastin production.  The only exception is that microneedling shouldn’t be used on keloid scars because keloid scars are caused by an abnormal overproduction of collagen in response to inflammation or injury. 

2. HYPERPIGMENTATION

Hyperpigmentation is a condition in which parts of the skin become darker in color than the surrounding skin. There is a tendency for some to have an unusual production of melanin which generally occurs in people with a darker complexion. They can be from acne, wounds, prolonged exposure to sun etc. Microneedling works on hyperpigmentation by shredding the top layer of the skin and produces normal melanocytes after. This means that microneedling can diminish the look of and even eliminate hyperpigmentation. This procedure is a good substitute for other hyperpigmentation treatments such as microdermabrasion, laser and chemical peels since it is safe for people with a darker skin tone since it does not lead to loss of skin pigment or a chance of melasma forming. 

3. FINE LINES AND WRINKLES

When we’re younger, our skin is smoother and heals quickly thanks to all of the collagen in our dermis however our body stops producing collagen in our mid to late 20s.  Around age 30, our collagen production begins a long unyielding decline and because of this, one may already notice fine lines and wrinkles appearing on their face. 

After age 30, the collagen level drops to 1 to 2% every year so by age 40, we have already lost 10 to 20% of our collagen and by 50, we’re down 20 to 40%. By the time we head 60, well, you get the picture.

The primary appeal of microneedling is its ability to stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin which is the key to new youthful looking skin. With its ability to trigger generation of new collagen fibers, just a few sessions of microneedling will noticeably reduce fine lines and wrinkles on the face which is great. Microneedling can also significantly improve these conditions by producing natural collagen and elastin thus resulting in reduction of fine lines, wrinkles and scars. Collagen produced through microneedling will help thicken and tighten the skin.  So if you want thicker and plumper skin, you just gotta roll with the Banisher. 

4. Premature Aging

So, similar to the effects of treating fine lines and wrinkles, microneedling can also help prevent premature aging by triggering collagen and elastin growth. This  prevents the breakdown of collagen that can result in skin aging. By thickening, repairing, strengthening and updating the elasticity of the skin, microneedling can have an preventative aging effect by giving skin a stronger, more youthful appearance which is why it is one of the most frequently turned to skin treatments for anti-aging.

Microneedling can help reduce the size of enlarged pores as well if the reason is due to collagen loss.  This will stimulate collagen in and around your pores, causing them to plump and appear shrunken.

5. HAIR GROWTH

I know a lot of guys would buy the Banish products because it helps with their hair growth and this is true! It definitely helps with hair loss and hair growth. Microneedling can be performed on the scalp in order to help combat and reverse the effects of hair loss. You can either use the Banisher as a stand alone or you can also use it in conjunction with hair medication like minoxidil in order to facilitate absorption into the scalp. 

If you will not use any hair care products, microneedling may help promote hair growth by increasing blood flow to the hair follicles thereby also inhibiting proteins that cause hair loss, but its best paired with a hair growth product. 

6. STRETCH MARKS

 Stretch marks occur from rapid skin stretching and usually appears during puberty or pregnancy for men and women.  It is tougher to treat and may need several treatments to see visible results but a lot of people have reported seeing excellent results.

Microneedling works on stretch marks by breaking down stretch mark tissues and triggers collagen growth that can eventually reduce or fade stretch marks over time.

7. BETTER PRODUCT ABSORPTION

The last one was already mentioned above but let me just give a separate pointer for it - the Banisher helps with better product absorption. Did you know that only 4 to 8% of those expensive products that we buy actually penetrate our skin?

One of the additional appeals of microneedling is that it improves product absorption tremendously. Studies confirm that the treatment can help topical medications penetrate the skin more efficiently, allowing you to reap the full benefits of any product.  This makes total sense considering the fact that microneedling creates thousands of micro channels on your skin that are ready to absorb products and increase the efficacy. 

Just make sure not to put anything too irritating or full of fragrance on your skin after since you don't want that being absorbed more! 

DERMA ROLLING COMMON QUESTIONS ANSWERED

When Should I Not Use A Dermaroller?

Don't dermaroll if you have a lot of active acne, or rashes.  You would be spreading the bacteria deeper and to more areas of the skin which increases risk of infection.

It's also not recommended for use if you are pregnant.

If you are taking medications like Isotretinoin, you shouldn't use a dermaroller eitherl. 

 

MICRONEEDLING versus DERMAROLLING, Which is Better?

If ever you’re wondering what’s the difference between microneedling and dermarolling and which is better, here are the details: 

 Dermarollers are forms of microneedling used to stimulate the production of new collagen by creating microscopic injuries to the skin.

The difference is that microneedling typically refers to a device with needles to create controlled micro wounds on the skin through vertical stamping motion while dermarolling uses a mini wheel covered with tiny needles to gently prick the face.

We prefer a microneedle stamp because the needles go straight down into and out of the skin vertically, creating the smallest micro injuries possible, while rollers roll into and out of the skin at an angle so the channel created is a wider 'cone' shape. 

Dermarollers can be fine to use as long as you are gentle with it, however if you are concerned about possible skin tearing or have more sensitive skin then a microneedle stamp like the Banisher 2.0 is a better choice. 

According to Dermarologist Dr Dylan Greeney based in Indiana, stampers are preferred because “It’s not dragging across your skin, causing haphazard cuts on your skin."

With dermarollers, don't roll back and forth aggressively as you should roll in one direction, lift up, then roll in one direction again while pulling the skin the opposite direction you are rolling.  You also need to be careful of where you purchase them as there are a lot of copycat rollers out there that are very low quality.  

Banish has a patented tool with 0.5 mm microneedles  that won't cause unnecessary trauma to the skin but can still help stimulate the formation of collagen and create microchannels for skincare ingredients.

Dermarollers require a little more technique to use and you have to be gentle with it and not roll too aggressively as that could lead to an unwanted side effect known as 'tram track' scarring. 

ARE THERE SIDE EFFECTS TO DERMA ROLLER?

Derma rolling has a few common side effects that will go away on its own in a few hours and side effects depend on how long the needles are.  

The most side effect includes redness. 

DO I HAVE TO DISINFECT IT BEFORE USING IT FOR THE FIRST TIME OR CAN I USE IT RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX?

Yes, always sanitize a dermaroller with Isopropyl alcohol before and after use.

WHEN DO I SEE RESULTS?

We have had customers see results from first use to three months. Though our products work for most of us, we still cannot guarantee that it will give positive results to everyone. Like any other product, it will always depend on your skin's reactions to the products and the process itself.

Microneedling does work and it also requires commitment and consistency to the treatment program.

These side effects are normal. The dryness and flakiness is part of the skin turnover process of the uppermost layer shedding as the new collagen is being created underneath, and pushing the old layer off.   Redness is also common, and usually goes back to normal within the next day or next couple of hours. 

To get the most out of your microneedling treatment, I recommend reading this article on common microneedling mistakes that could slow your results.  

Have you had success with a derma roller?  Let us know in the comments!