10 Microneedling Mistakes That Slow Or Ruin Your Results

• Using Low Quality Derma Rollers 
• Applying a serum containing high amounts of fragrance after.
• Microneedling too often and too aggressively
• Using the wrong needle size.
• Not using sunscreen.
• Microneedling over skin infections, active acne, or sores.
• Applying irritating skincare like retinol, BHA and AHA after microneedling
• Not replacing your microneedling tool often enough
• Not sanitizing Your Microneedle Tool Before Use
• Not Being Consistent

Mistake 1: Using low-quality Derma rollers

Rollers on eBay, Amazon, Temu may be lower quality especially if they are sold at a low price point and the sellers are there to make a quick buck before moving on to the next trendy item.  

The product may not be inspected and needles could be bent, not made with the right metals, and the needles may be of a thicker gauge, which studies show that thinner needles are better in terms of not having risk of scarring.  

As Dr. Nicole James who is licensed in Advanced Aesthetics states: “If you’re wanting to do at home microneedline at home, I wouldn’t recommend derma rollers, instead I recommend something like a micro stamp device.“ 

Derma roller needles also roll into and out of the skin at an angle so the needles are not entering and exiting vertically on the skin all the time. 

This means that the microinjuries caused by dermarollers are wider and can cause unnecessary irritation and trauma. In some cases, rollers can also cause a side effect called 'tram track' scarring on the skin due to how the needles roll into the skin. 

 

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Mistake 2: Applying a New Serum With Fragrance After Microneedling

There's been 3 cases of granulomas which is a type of skin inflammation that occurred after getting professional microneedling done at a med spa and applying the same serum. The study concluded a fragrance or preservative component of the serum most likely caused the negative reaction.    

In skincare, people are more likely to have a reaction to fragrances or preservatives, so avoid applying a serum or skincare product with high amounts of it after microneedling. 

When microneedling at home, only apply a serum that you know you aren't allergic to. Preferably, apply a serum without fragrance and as little preservatives as possible.  

Mistake 3: Microneedling Too Often & Aggressively

More isn't always better.  In fact, microneedling too often is probably one of the most common microneedling mistakes that can worsen your results. 

It is crucial that you give your skin time to heal and recover after every treatment. Failing to do so can slow healing while increasing irritation, and inflammation which we don't want to do to our skin. 

Studies show that collagen is still forming in the skin up to 1 month later after microneedling, so be patient.   Similar to building muscle, you need to wait until you recover or risk injury.  

If you want to microneedle at home with the Banisher 3.0,  wait up to a full week to do another treatment.  Since the Banisher has very thin needles, there is less healing time compared to other common ones on the market. 

Mistake 4: Using The Wrong Needle Size

A lot of people think that a larger needle size means better results, longer needles have a greater risk and these should be handled by a professional. 

According to Dermatologist Dr. Davin Lim, "You do not need to go deep to get good results, deep meaning anything over 0.5mm - when you microneedle deep, you’re not getting a better response, you’re increasing skin trauma, you’re increasing the skin to more side effects, you may worsen your post inflammatory hyperpigmentation” - Dr. Davin Lim Laser & Aesthetic  Dermatologist 

Longer needles at 1mm or higher could cause damage and trauma to the nerve endings, fat,  and hair follicles at the deeper layers of skin while increasing risk of skin infection.

In my opinion, the safest size I would recommend for others to use at home is up to 0.5mm which is what Banish has and is the minimal size for stimulating collagen. 

Shorter needle lengths at 0.25mm are available but they are best for product absorption and mild exfoliation, not for collagen production needed to improve  acne scars. 

Mistake 5: Not Using Sunscreen 

Another common microneedling mistake is not wearing sunscreen after microneedling.  Whenever you do a microneedling or derma roller session, sunscreen should always accompany it.

Sun exposure increases the risk of hyperpigmentation, and the risk is higher when your skin is recovering after microneedling.  If you must go out or if you are in a sunny room, wear sunscreen daily even if it's been a few days after microneedling since UV damage can still occur.  

Use a full spectrum sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB with SPF 30 or above. Mineral sunscreen is recommended while the skin is sensitive after microneedling. 

Tip to increase UV protection: Apply a Vitamin C product before your sunscreen. Studies show vitamin c increases the effect of UV protection from your sunscreen. 

 

Mistake 6: Microneedling on active acne, or skin infections

Don't make the mistake of microneedling over active acne, rashes, open sores. To keep yourself protected against the spread of infection, avoid microneedling near any acne, open sores, psoriasis, wounds, warts, and other bacterial or active viral or fungal skin infections. 

Wait for the skin lesion or infection to completely heal.

Mistake 7: Applying Retinol, AHA, or BHAs  After Microneedling

Applying the wrong skincare after microneedling is another common mistake to avoid.

Derma rollers and microneedling enhance the absorption of skincare products  anywhere from 5-20x times more into the skin. This can mean good or bad.

Avoid applying products that contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or lactic acid after microneedling because they can cause too much irritation.  Wait 24 hours after microneedling to use, or use the day before.

Do not apply makeup for at least 24 hours after microneedling.  If your skin is very sensitive, a basic moisturizer is all you need until the next day. 

If you have acne prone skin, I would steer clear of any petroleum-based, mineral oil, propylene glycol, silicon, or coconut oil as these can clog pores especially if you have already acne prone skin. 

Mistake 8: Not Replacing Your Microneedling Head

It’s important to replace your microneedle tool no matter what company it came from, because the needles can become blunt after several uses. Over time, the microneedles can also accumulate bacteria, oils, debris that make it difficult to clean.   

Remember that we only want to use sharp, straight needles to prevent unnecessary skin traumas and blunt ones will become ineffective. 

The Banisher 3.0  has gold plated titanium needles that are strong and resistant to bacteria, but they still need to be replaced after max of 8 uses for best results. 

Mistake 9: Not Sanitizing Your Microneedle Tool Before Use

This is the simplest step yet with our busy lives, easy to skip. It's important to always sanitize your microneedling tool before every use, even if you cleaned it after storing it.

Always make sure to have freshly cleansed skin before microneedling too.  Not doing so could spread bacteria deeper into the skin potentially leading to more breakouts which is the last thing we want. 

Mistake 10: Not Being Consistent

Consistency matters. Seeing results from microneedling takes time so don't expect results overnight.  Stick to a regular schedule when you microneedle.  In most cases this can be once every two weeks, or once a week. 

Some people may find that they do see results the next day which is usually more of a temporary plumping effect, long laster permanent collagen build up takes place over several weeks. 

It takes an average of 1-3 months for most people to notice long term results from microneedling.   Any skincare procedure or routine takes time! 

Keep going, stay consistent and as long as you follow these simple guidelines as well as the instructions with your microneedling tool then you are guaranteed results.

As a summary, we hope that these tips will help you with your microneedling progress on acne scars! Check the list below for a short summary on the common microneedling mistakes to avoid making. 

Recommended microneedling stamp tool: Banisher 2.0

Below is prettyprogress23's result with Banish

 

 

References:

Benefits of adding vitamin C to your skin care routine: https://www.bcm.edu/news/benefits-vitamin-c-skin-care

Pahwa, M., Pahwa, P., & Zaheer, A. (2012). "Tram track effect" after treatment of acne scars using a microneedling device. Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 38(7 Pt 1), 1107–1108. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2012.02441.x

 

El-Domyati M, Barakat M, Awad S, Medhat W, El-Fakahany H, Farag H. Microneedling Therapy for Atrophic Acne Scars: An Objective Evaluation. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015 Jul;8(7):36-42. PMID: 26203319; PMCID: PMC4509584. 

Singh A, Yadav S. Microneedling: Advances and widening horizons. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2016 Jul-Aug;7(4):244-54. doi: 10.4103/2229-5178.185468. PMID: 27559496; PMCID: PMC4976400.